When asked to name a Japanese varietal, most knowledgeable wine drinkers outside of Japan are liable to say “Koshu.” This is not surprising, as the grape seems to get a lot of publicity from various quarters and because its cultivation is closely associated with Yamanashi Prefecture, which is readily accessible from Tokyo, making it an attractive destination for foreign visitors, who can immerse themselves in things Koshu.
We have always considered Koshu to be a wine that cannot stand alone. A skateboard needs wheels. Bread needs butter. Mainstream politicians need campaign contributions, and Koshu needs food. The tasting we conducted confirms our long-held belief.
This carefully crafted wine from The Okura—that’s Okura Hotel, if you will—is lemon in color with subtle floral aromas of honeysuckle and mountain lily and a touch of vanilla from oak exposure. It has a light body and pronounced acidity on the palate with a bland flavor profile—remember the-cannot-stand-alone argument—and 11% abv. After popping a few pistachio nuts, which just happened to be lying around, into our mouths, the experience improved somewhat. Koshu seemed a little less bland.
Yes, Koshu may be a good pairing with certain varieties of sashimi, fish with subtle flavors. Anyone ever try fugu sashi? But for our money, Muscat Bailey A and Black Queen are the Japanese varietals that should be placed on pedestals.
Drinking Japan 