Last week we looked at an artisanal vinegar designed for drinking. This week we will turn our attention to the rarefied world of balsamico tradizionale, that’s the slow-aged variety of balsamic vinegar, not the kind that you may run across at your local supermarket. If there were a musical composition best suited to accompany the … Continue reading Traditional Balsamic Vinegar
Gaba Berry: Made in Kyushu Cacao Vinegar
The practice of drinking vinegar is fairly well established in certain quarters. This is usually done because it is believed that vinegar is salubrious, rather than because drinking it can be a gratifying experience in and of itself. I used to be in the habit of mixing up my own vinegar-based libation using rather mundane … Continue reading Gaba Berry: Made in Kyushu Cacao Vinegar
Wine: The Flip Side
The Vinegar Merchant (17th century) by Abraham Bosse Way back in recent antiquity (how’s that for an oxymoron?), in the early days of rock’n’roll, there was something called a “45.” No, this was not some Saturday-night special: it was a little record that would go around the turntable forty-five times per minute. These records usually … Continue reading Wine: The Flip Side
The Name Game
This week we deviate substantially from what we normally do. We simply look at a name. The late-Shirley Ellis, a singer who had more than a few hit songs a number of decades ago, including “The Name Game,” would probably agree with the following: naming can be a serious game. Presumably, she made a pretty … Continue reading The Name Game
Of Roses, Rosés, and Bellwood Vineyard’s 2023 Assemblage Rosé
A rose is a rose, is a rose, is a rose…No, that’s not right! A rosé is a rosé, is a rosé, is a…. No, that’s not right, either! There can be significant differences among rosés. Some of the variables that may account for these differences are terroir, grape variety, and decisions made by the … Continue reading Of Roses, Rosés, and Bellwood Vineyard’s 2023 Assemblage Rosé
White Heat Night at JSS Information Center, Tokyo: Hot-Sake Science
There are several definitions for the term white heat. Two are relevant here. white heat The state or temperature at which matter emits white light. A state of intensive activity. [Wiktionary] Heated sake is a pleasure to consume, all year round, of course, but especially on those stygian winter nights. To some people, preparing this drink is simple. Pour some sake into a cup; put it … Continue reading White Heat Night at JSS Information Center, Tokyo: Hot-Sake Science
“By the Beautiful Sea”: A Coral Wine
By the sea, by the sea, by the beautiful seaYou and I, you and I, oh! how happy we'll be,When each wave comes a rolling inWe will duck or swim,And we’ll float and fool around the water,…. This lyrical excerpt from the 1914 hit song is the perfect way to kick off our entry on … Continue reading “By the Beautiful Sea”: A Coral Wine
The Portugal Wine Grand Tasting: Madeira
Portugal is a country dear to our hearts. The people are hospitable without being ingratiating; the food—codfish, sardines, lots of pork, and chicken—is exactly what we like to see on our plates; the number of indigenous grape varieties is high, which enlivens and enriches the wine-drinking experience; and the country is the cleanest one we … Continue reading The Portugal Wine Grand Tasting: Madeira
Germany’s Finest: Schloss Johannisberg
A little while ago, one of us here at drinkingjapan.org had the good fortune of visiting Schloss Johannisberg, which is indisputably Germany’s most famous winery. Before we get into the sensory evaluation of the wonderful Riesling purchased therefrom, we would like to consider stumbling. That’s right, stumbling. Generally, this is a negative occurrence, especially when … Continue reading Germany’s Finest: Schloss Johannisberg
A Rascal and a Villain at the Sakura Grand Tasting
It is always a pleasure to cover the annual Sakura JWWA Grand Tasting. The 2025 event was held at Tokyo’s Gajoen Hotel, one of the most attractive hotels in the city. This year there were approximately 700 people in attendance. We encountered a couple of wineries whose output we have extolled in years past and … Continue reading A Rascal and a Villain at the Sakura Grand Tasting
A JFEX Gem: Yudanaka Brewery’s Sake Premium Beer
JFEX 2025, July We wrote about this brewery last year when we encountered them at JFEX. This year we ran into them again, the brewmaster to be precise, and had the opportunity to taste their Sake Premium Beer. This Nagano-based establishment puts out some pretty imaginative brews. For those interested in what we wrote about … Continue reading A JFEX Gem: Yudanaka Brewery’s Sake Premium Beer
Shinshu Miyada Wine Shiki 2023
Shiki 2023 is a wine made from 100% Yama-Sauvignon grapes, a hybrid of Yamabudo, a “wild” grape, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Shiki 2023 is produced by Mars Komagatake Distillery, which produces wine along with their more famous whisky. On the same premises is the Minami Shinshu Komagatake Brewery, a sister entity which produces the writer’s favorite … Continue reading Shinshu Miyada Wine Shiki 2023
Encounter at Raw Wine Tokyo 2025: Parra Libre Cinsault
Some of our readers might not be familiar with the term “raw wine,” so we will endeavor to provide a concise explanation for a concept that requires book-length coverage, which is exactly what Isabelle Legeron, the driving force behind the Raw Wine events, provides in her seminal work Natural Wine: an introduction to organic and … Continue reading Encounter at Raw Wine Tokyo 2025: Parra Libre Cinsault
Malaysian toddy
One of the writers of this blog visited Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia recently on a business trip. During his trip he tried Toddy, a fermented beverage made from the sap of the unopened flowers of palms. —— After several days of engaging meetings and great Malaysian food, I was ready to fly home. However, there was … Continue reading Malaysian toddy
Ieyasu B[eer]
Famous Generals--Dainippon Meisho Kagami, Chikanobu This is the last installment in our FOODEX 2025 series. Perhaps the naming of this beer was inspired by those military brews of Finland, Togo and Yamamoto beers. This one is named after one of Japan’s great unifiers, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616). Personally, we are rather partial to devolution, but we … Continue reading Ieyasu B[eer]
Sweet Encounter at Haneda Airport: KOKUTO DE LEQUIO
Before hastily departing the JAL Business Class Lounge at Haneda Airport in order to catch an overseas flight, this bottle on the bar caught my eye. What an unusual beverage, I thought, as indeed it is. A number of things attracted my attention: the bilingual label (Japanese-Spanish), its quasi-Latin American motif, and the word kokuto, … Continue reading Sweet Encounter at Haneda Airport: KOKUTO DE LEQUIO
Kikunotsukasa’s Shinboshi
We wrote about the output of this kura recently and in the distant past. Here is another example of one of their products. It was featured at FOODEX JAPAN 2025. Sensory Evaluation: This junmai ginjo has a clean and fresh nose with hints of vanilla and strawberry. It’s initially sweet on the palate, slowly turning … Continue reading Kikunotsukasa’s Shinboshi
Adega Mayor’s altitude, Comendador Reserva
Another FOODEX JAPAN 2025 encounter. At FOODEX Japan 2025, they really pulled out the stops in the wine section. Just take a look at the above pictures. As it turned out, that was my last stop, so I did not have enough time to talk to all of the vintners and merchants about their products. … Continue reading Adega Mayor’s altitude, Comendador Reserva
Tokyo Hachio Gin Elderflower from Tokyo Hachioji Distillery
Elderflowers, Elderberries More from FOODEX Japan 2025! It has become increasingly difficult to write about the gin market in Japan. This is not due to a dearth of quality products entering the market, however. From what I have experienced, the trend is in the opposite direction: there are many impressive craft gins from which the … Continue reading Tokyo Hachio Gin Elderflower from Tokyo Hachioji Distillery
A Fig Liqueur-like Beverage from Japan: Brought to Us by Miyato Yaso Institute of Niigata
Another product featured at FOODEX Japan 2025. Figs are not a fruit that one associates with Japan. Egypt and Turkey are the heavy hitters with respect to them. Nevertheless, the Japanese do grow figs and are now producing a liqueur-like drink from the fruit. Figs have a number of characteristics that make them attractive—not in … Continue reading A Fig Liqueur-like Beverage from Japan: Brought to Us by Miyato Yaso Institute of Niigata
JFEX Gems: Morita Kinshachi Brewery’s Matcha and Miso Brews
As is our custom, drinkingjapan.org was at JFEX 2025, which was held at Tokyo Big Sight from July 9-July 11. We encountered a number of noteworthy beverages and will report on some of them from time to time. The following is our evaluation of two brews from an Aichi-based brewery. Tea Ceremony, Mizuno Toshikata Last … Continue reading JFEX Gems: Morita Kinshachi Brewery’s Matcha and Miso Brews
Kizakura “Kyoto Mugiaji Matcha”
Have you seen the videos comparing US and foreign versions of various food products? Common products that are often compared are cereals and sodas, where the US versions often have synthetic petroleum-based dyes, while foreign versions do not. The US versions are vibrantly colored, while the foreign versions have more subdued hues. Due to health … Continue reading Kizakura “Kyoto Mugiaji Matcha”
“The Ostrich”: The Dance
This is the final entry in our “Ostrich Series.” As promised, we will end on a musical note. In the 1960s there were a whole slew of dance songs, ranging from Little Eva’s “The Loco-Motion” to The Orions’ “The Wah-Watusi” to the eternally irritating “Do the Freddie” by Freddie and the Dreamers. Believe me, you … Continue reading “The Ostrich”: The Dance
Ostrich: Beyond Meat
As we implied in the first entry of this series, there is more to ostriches than meat. We could go on at great length about this, but, as our readers will know, we try to keep our postings relatively brief. Among the notable characteristics of the bird are its feathers and its eggs. The illustration … Continue reading Ostrich: Beyond Meat
Ostrich and Wine Pairing, Part 2
We chose three red wines and paired them with Yoshinoya’s ostrich under two conditions. The three wines are pictured below and a limited sensory evaluation will be provided for each. The wines are all reasonably priced. The ostrich was tasted first without the accompanying sauce and then with it, following the rule “from light to … Continue reading Ostrich and Wine Pairing, Part 2
Ostrich and Wine Pairing, Part 1
Still Life with Ham and Grapes, Alexander Adriaenssen Often successful wine and food pairing is just a matter of common sense. You wouldn’t use a hammer to insert a SIM card, would you? Or a nuclear weapon to zap a mosquito? Or a crowbar to create a seat for yourself on a crowded subway train? … Continue reading Ostrich and Wine Pairing, Part 1
Ostrich: The Bird and Its Meat
In certain quarters there is a debate as to whether the ostrich is intelligent or stupid. We are not going to engage in that pastime. However, we will cite from an important publication that has something very interesting to say about the ostrich in Africa. …it wanders about in flocks of twenty and thirty and … Continue reading Ostrich: The Bird and Its Meat
Ostrich: Introduction
Pulling Out the Stops We are going to pull out all the stops over the next few weeks and take a close look at the ostrich—the bird, its meat, its wine-pairing possibilities, its contribution to the world of cosmetics, historical uses, and even a dance fashioned after this flightless bird, the biggest in the world. … Continue reading Ostrich: Introduction
Blowing My Horn
Boasting is definitely frowned upon in the circles in which we travel, but there are occasions when a blast, preferably from a Baroque era valveless trumpet, is not only appropriate but, shall we say, mandatory. Well, as Frank Zappa put it, “The Meek Shall Inherit Nothing.” So, here we go. As our regular readers should … Continue reading Blowing My Horn
Mùa Craft Saké
I had first heard about Mùa Craft Saké through a tweet by the sake expert Chiba Marie in November of last year. Mùa Craft Saké is a new sake brewpub in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), Vietnam. I was rather skeptical - sake made from local Vietnamese rice? Why are they flavoring it with dragon … Continue reading Mùa Craft Saké
Five Vision Brewery’s Hoshibatake’s Chrysanthemum (つま菊) Ale
We came across a large number of interesting beverages at this year’s FOODEX. Here is another one. The chrysanthemum is a very important flower in Japan: it is the Imperial family’s crest, makes its appearance in works of art, is featured as a motif on some kimono, is employed as a natural insecticide, and functions … Continue reading Five Vision Brewery’s Hoshibatake’s Chrysanthemum (つま菊) Ale
Shiraso Brewery & Distillery’s “Strawberry” Offering: Tochiakane RED (とちあかね いちご酵母仕込みRED)
Rooster and Indian Strawberries, Sugakudo This week we feature yet another product on display at FOODEX JAPAN 2025. No, Shiraso is not handing out strawberries at their brewery, but they are located in Tochigi Prefecture, and they do have a nihon-shu with more then a tenuous connection to the fruit. As is usually the case … Continue reading Shiraso Brewery & Distillery’s “Strawberry” Offering: Tochiakane RED (とちあかね いちご酵母仕込みRED)
Beyond Cider: 01 Haskap from Blank Cider Works
This is yet another interesting product featured at FOODEX Japan 2025. You can’t go wrong with a name like “Blank,” and we’re not being sarcastic here. Blank can imply that anything is possible, and innovation is welcome, which we believe is their intended meaning, if we interpreted their promotional literature correctly. Such is the case … Continue reading Beyond Cider: 01 Haskap from Blank Cider Works
Showerings Triple Vintage Cider: An “Apple-Pie Order”
The following is about another one of our encounters at FOODEX 2025. Edward Calvert (British, Appledore, Devon 1799–1833 Hackney (London)) The Cyder Feast, 1828 British, Wood engraving on India paper, laid down; third state of three; Image: 2 15/16 in. × 5 in. (7.5 × 12.7 cm) Sheet: 3 1/2 × 5 1/2 in. (8.9 … Continue reading Showerings Triple Vintage Cider: An “Apple-Pie Order”
Returner, Japan’s Earl Grey Tea Liqueur
The following is about another one of our encounters at FOODEX 2025. There seems to be some kind of controversy, brouhaha, tempest in a teacup, what have you, as to how Earl Grey’s name became associated with Earl Grey tea, so we are not going to waste our readers’ valuable time on such trivia. Suffice … Continue reading Returner, Japan’s Earl Grey Tea Liqueur
Kikunotsukasa Shuzo’s Shichifukujin Junmai Daiginjo
This is the second installment of our FOODEX 2025 series. We’ve always had a soft spot in our hearts for Iwate Prefecture, “Land of Kappa.” Tono City, Iwate, you see, is where those mischievous little reptiloids hold court. Take our word for it: you can search the back alleys of Kappabashi, but you probably won’t … Continue reading Kikunotsukasa Shuzo’s Shichifukujin Junmai Daiginjo
FOODEX JAPAN 2025: Coffee Cherry Beer
Starting this week and extending over the next few months, we will occasionally be posting entries related to our coverage of FOODEX JAPAN 2025, the venue for which was Tokyo Big Sight (TBS). The picture above is that of the partially buried saw, a sculpture that appears outside TBS. We like to think of it … Continue reading FOODEX JAPAN 2025: Coffee Cherry Beer
“I Tell You Beauty Bears an Ultra Fringe”: An Evening with Japan’s National Fungus
Simply Beautiful The title of this entry is taken from American poet Edna St. Vincent Millay’s “Still Will I Harvest Beauty Where It Grows.” The subtitle is a reference to our presence at a lecture by Dr. Hiroshi Konno, which was delivered at the Japan Sake and Shochu Information Center (JSS) in February of this … Continue reading “I Tell You Beauty Bears an Ultra Fringe”: An Evening with Japan’s National Fungus
Amorphophallus konjac Beer
The pejorative word devil is sometimes applied to things that are quite good. Ambrose Bierce’s The Devil’s Dictionary is a case in point. Consider its definition of mausoleum: “The final and funniest folly of the rich.” See what we mean? Then there is that nefarious musical instrument once widely denigrated by the holier-than-thou types as … Continue reading Amorphophallus konjac Beer
Drinking Songs
In our last blog entry of 2024, we introduced our readers to the Backbeat Radio show, on which our website was mentioned and our choice for Backbeat’s best song of the year was played. It is a drinking song called “Nickel of Wine.” The music is quite appealing, but it was the lyrics that struck … Continue reading Drinking Songs
Who Has Seen the Yeasts?
Eminence Grise, Jean-Leon Gerome Last week we discussed Kyokai yeast #14. This week we will switch from the specific to the general. Noteworthy sake is the result of a number of factors coalescing at the right time and in the right way. The strain and quality of the rice used, the all-important water, that UNESCO-recognized … Continue reading Who Has Seen the Yeasts?
“Yes! We Have No Bananas.”
Have you ever lifted a glass of nihon-shu to your nose, sniffed, and asked yourself why it smells like bananas? Has the brewer decided to jazz up his product and give it a bit of confectionary appeal by adding a little banana extract perhaps? Well, in the ungrammatical words of that hit song from way … Continue reading “Yes! We Have No Bananas.”
A Taste of Toyama: Sanshoraku’s Junmai Ginjo
Just before the holidays last year we were given this bottle of sake from Toyama, which caused us to think about that prefecture and its production of nihon-shu, and to open the bottle, of course. The latter was a very pleasant experience, and, as is our custom, a sensory evaluation will be included later in … Continue reading A Taste of Toyama: Sanshoraku’s Junmai Ginjo
Grilled Tongue and Raw Whale
Grilling the Tongue Last week we reported on an extremely dense and delicious nigorizake from Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture. This week we will focus on a Sendai specialty, as well as something else we consumed there. It is hard to spend any significant amount of time in the city of Sendai without encountering a restaurant specializing … Continue reading Grilled Tongue and Raw Whale
Anticipation: Moritami Sou Honke’s Nigorizake
Many years ago, there was an interesting commercial running on American television channels. It showed ketchup emerging ever so slowly from its bottle, while the Carly Simon song “Anticipation” played in the background. The unstated message was that this product is so thick and rich that it just has to be delicious, and, naturally, one … Continue reading Anticipation: Moritami Sou Honke’s Nigorizake
Tokyo Cuisine: The Future, Part 5
This is the fifth installment on the media event entitled “A Journey to Unravel Tokyo’s Diverse Food and Spirit,” organized by the Tokyo Food Promotion 2024 Executive Committee and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. This week I will look into my imaginary crystal ball to limn adumbrations of the city’s gastronomic future. The focus in this … Continue reading Tokyo Cuisine: The Future, Part 5
Tokyo Cuisine: The Present, Part 4
This is the fourth installment on the media event entitled “A Journey to Unravel Tokyo’s Diverse Food and Spirit,” organized by the Tokyo Food Promotion 2024 Executive Committee and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. This week I look at what Tokyo has to offer in the 21st century as presented by Chef Yahei Suzuki, whose restaurant, … Continue reading Tokyo Cuisine: The Present, Part 4
Tokyo Cuisine: The Past, Part 3
This is the third installment on the media event entitled “A Journey to Unravel Tokyo’s Diverse Food and Spirit,” organized by the Tokyo Food Promotion 2024 Executive Committee and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. This week I will report on what was cooking—and still is today—during the Edo Period. Chef Akihiko Murata, the owner of Suzunari, … Continue reading Tokyo Cuisine: The Past, Part 3
Tokyo Cuisine: Past, Present, and Future, Part 2
Fukagawa by Hiroshige This is the second installment on the media event entitled “A Journey to Unravel Tokyo’s Diverse Food and Spirit,” organized by the Tokyo Food Promotion 2024 Executive Committee and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. This week I report on the three chefs who participated in it. There seems to be something almost magical … Continue reading Tokyo Cuisine: Past, Present, and Future, Part 2
Tokyo Cuisine: Past, Present, and Future, Part 1
Unknown Title; Artist: Hiroshige Late last year one of us here at drinkingjapan.org received an invitation from the Foreign Press Center of Japan to a media event entitled “A Journey to Unravel Tokyo’s Diverse Food and Spirit,” organized by the Tokyo Food Promotion 2024 Executive Committee and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. It was open to … Continue reading Tokyo Cuisine: Past, Present, and Future, Part 1
Drinking Japan 