This is the fifth installment on the media event entitled “A Journey to Unravel Tokyo’s Diverse Food and Spirit,” organized by the Tokyo Food Promotion 2024 Executive Committee and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. This week I will look into my imaginary crystal ball to limn adumbrations of the city’s gastronomic future. The focus in this section will be on Chef Yusuke Nomura, the owner of Daigo, a restaurant that has been in his family for four generations. Of course, Daigo has been a Michelin-starred restaurant for a long time, close to two decades, but in the 2025 edition of the book, Daigo picked up another one—the Michelin Green Star, which is awarded to establishments dedicated to sustainable gastronomy. Nomura-san is a polymath, who is eager to convey his knowledge to others.
I have a fairly comprehensive understanding of Japanese cuisine; however, I knew nothing about the cuisine served at Daigo, “shojin ryori kaiseki style.” This is Buddhist-inspired vegetarian fare. Readers of this blog will know that I am a dedicated carnivore who cannot even conceive of a life without meat. Nevertheless, the dishes prepared by Nomura-san were delicious, aesthetically presented, and imbued with philosophical gravitas. I will structure this entry as follows: 1) a sensory evaluation of one of the most interesting dishes served; 2) philosophical commentary on another of the dishes served; and 3) a brief description of the drink-pairing.
Hobayaki, which is pictured above, contains a number of our favorite foods—ginkgo nuts, konnyaku, porcini and morel mushrooms, to name but a few, all smothered in a sweet miso that makes it difficult to stop eating. The dish is encased in a couple of leaves. Are they simply decorations? Ersatz flatware? Well, to a certain extent, they are both, of course. But as Chef Nomura pointed out, these dead leaves provide a fragrance that enhances the sensory experience.
Hassun was the second dish served, and according to its description in the handout those present received, it is “A visually delightful plate that combines seasonal ingredients with traditional Japanese landscapes, customs, and practices, presented on specially chosen tableware” [emphasis added]. The visual aspect here is not merely aesthetic. The food was arranged on what is meant to resemble an old-fashioned tool used to scoop up fallen leaves. A moment’s reflection by thoughtful diners will encourage them to think about the utility of things commonly considered useless (see above paragraph) and perhaps lead to considerations of related issues like sustainability.
And as for the drinks-pairing, as I told Chef Nomura after the luncheon/presentation, it was the best Manhattan I have ever had, which is not surprising, I suppose, because Nomura-san is a bartender, a sommelier…. Well, I did say he is a polymath, didn’t I?
Daigo: Tel: +81-3-3431-0811, Fax: +81-3-3431-1382
Daigo: http://www.atago-daigo.jp
*Compliments of ‘A Journey to Discover Tokyo’s Heart Through Its Diverse Cuisine’ or 「東京の多彩な食と心を紐解く旅」
Drinking Japan 